Day 25 - Santa Maria Val Mustair
Monday 17th July 2017
We ordered breakfast croissants last night so enjoy a hearty breakfast after a good night's sleep. For the first time in ages it is cold enough in the early morning for us to don the bike gear immediately. We are at 1134 metres a.s.l. so no surprise there.
The surrounding peaks are shrouded in cloud but by 8am the sun is starting to burn through and we are off.
Passo Gavia is a favourite of mine. It is far less travelled than the neigbouring Stelvio Pass but equally as spectacular. The southern climb is tight and winding, definitely unsuitable for camper vans though they do still attempt it from time to time.
But today is quiet and we meet very few other travellers as we climb up with the wonderful backdrop of the Dolomite peaks behind us. Near the top we park up to photograph a large deep blue glacial lake down the valley to the south.
At the top of the pass the Rifugio Bonetti is a good spot to bag a coffee and another new sticker for Mick. It is still early but there are quite a few other bikers milling around in the bright sunshine.
The run down the northern side to Bormio is easier; wider and better paved. The many arcane painted lines and letters on the tarmac tell the story. This is a Giro d'Italia cycling race route.
We are getting low on fuel but have just enough to get us up and over Stelvio and down the Umbrail Trail into Switzerland for a cheaper fill up. As usual the climb up Stelvio is much busier than Gavia.
Umbrail is another favourite of mine. A few years ago there was a long section of gravel road on this descent and I suspect that a lot of tourers are unaware that it is now beautifully paved down the whole length.
The turn off for the start of the Umbrail Trail is a few hundred metres below the Stelvio summit. There are derelict border post buildings but no official checks on this route out of the EU and into Switzerland.
A seies of hairpins leads down to a broad alpine meadow half way down and then down a series of glorious hairpins through the forest down to the Mustair Valley. The village of Santa Maria Val Mustair lies at the foot of the trail and just above the village there is a great camp site nestling in the trees.
Campingplatz Pe da Munt is charming and simple. There is a small camp shop and a shower and loo block and numbered pitches on the terraces that track back up the mountain. There are numerous walking routes leading off from the site and it is a favourite place for walkers and cyclists.
I stayed here last year when I was returning home alone from the Corsica trip. amazingly as we set up camp I am greeted by the Swiss family on the neighbouring pitch. They were in the same place last year when they invited me to share their campfire and a few beers.
After setting up camp and making a shopping run into Santa Maria I strip the luggage off the bike and go for an evening run up to the Stelvio summit and back again. My excuse is to get a couple of stickers for Mick's panniers but really I want to enjoy the thrilling ride.
There is virtually no traffic in the late evening and with the bike luggage-free it is a fast run; a chance to nail the last vestiges of chicken strips on the new Michelins.
Back at the camp we cook up some goulash soup and neck a few beers until a gathering storm finally cracks and we dive into the tents as another big storm hammers down and echoes around the surrounding mountains.
The storm continues to roll around the mountains in a circle and lasts long into the night. We fall asleep with thunder and lightning for a backdrop.
We ordered breakfast croissants last night so enjoy a hearty breakfast after a good night's sleep. For the first time in ages it is cold enough in the early morning for us to don the bike gear immediately. We are at 1134 metres a.s.l. so no surprise there.
Passo Gavia is a favourite of mine. It is far less travelled than the neigbouring Stelvio Pass but equally as spectacular. The southern climb is tight and winding, definitely unsuitable for camper vans though they do still attempt it from time to time.
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| On the route up Gavia |
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| Tight curves on Passo Gavia |
 |
| The southern approach to Gavia Pass |
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| Glacial lake on Gavia Pass |
 |
| Another new sticker |
The run down the northern side to Bormio is easier; wider and better paved. The many arcane painted lines and letters on the tarmac tell the story. This is a Giro d'Italia cycling race route.
 |
We are getting low on fuel but have just enough to get us up and over Stelvio and down the Umbrail Trail into Switzerland for a cheaper fill up. As usual the climb up Stelvio is much busier than Gavia.
Umbrail is another favourite of mine. A few years ago there was a long section of gravel road on this descent and I suspect that a lot of tourers are unaware that it is now beautifully paved down the whole length.
The turn off for the start of the Umbrail Trail is a few hundred metres below the Stelvio summit. There are derelict border post buildings but no official checks on this route out of the EU and into Switzerland.
 |
| At the Umbrail turnoff |
A seies of hairpins leads down to a broad alpine meadow half way down and then down a series of glorious hairpins through the forest down to the Mustair Valley. The village of Santa Maria Val Mustair lies at the foot of the trail and just above the village there is a great camp site nestling in the trees.
 |
| Campingplatz Pe da Munt |
Campingplatz Pe da Munt is charming and simple. There is a small camp shop and a shower and loo block and numbered pitches on the terraces that track back up the mountain. There are numerous walking routes leading off from the site and it is a favourite place for walkers and cyclists.
I stayed here last year when I was returning home alone from the Corsica trip. amazingly as we set up camp I am greeted by the Swiss family on the neighbouring pitch. They were in the same place last year when they invited me to share their campfire and a few beers.
 |
| Stelvio summit |
 |
| Fantastic Umbrail Trail |
There is virtually no traffic in the late evening and with the bike luggage-free it is a fast run; a chance to nail the last vestiges of chicken strips on the new Michelins.
Back at the camp we cook up some goulash soup and neck a few beers until a gathering storm finally cracks and we dive into the tents as another big storm hammers down and echoes around the surrounding mountains.
The storm continues to roll around the mountains in a circle and lasts long into the night. We fall asleep with thunder and lightning for a backdrop.
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